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Gadgets at Home
Gorilla Glue
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#1
of 28
Posted
Nov-1 8:33 PM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
All
[Msg # 1790.1 ]
I bought a bottle of Gorilla Glue a while ago. It's great stuff, BUT.....
Today I needed to use it for about the third time since I bought it and couldn't get any of the glue out of the bottle. The bottle is not very sqeezable and the glue won't budge. And the bottle is nearly full, too.
Does anyone has any storage tips for glue bottles? It's very frustrating to find solid glue just when you need it most. Is there any way to "soften" the glue at this point? I'm tempted to take a sledge hammer to it! <g>
Jan
The Travel Forum
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#2
of 28
Posted
Nov-1 9:04 PM
From
Jeff Peterman
Posts
1467
Last
2:43 PM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.2
1790.1
]
Anything that stops the solvent from evaporating should help. If you can't find something that will cap the bottle and seal it well, try putting the whole bottle in the smallest Ziplock back that will work, squeeze out all the extra air, and seal the bag.
Jeff Peterman
"What we got here, is . . . failure to communicate."
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#3
of 28
Posted
Nov-1 9:06 PM
From
John Crea - WUGNET
Posts
39
Last
7:32 AM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.3
1790.1
]
Jan
GorillaGlue and it's competitors start to harden when exposed to moisture - and once the bottle it opened the moisture in the air gets to the glue in the bottle and you are looking at a very finite lifespan - maybe as little as 3-6months
There is absolutely NO WAY to soften it up, just toss it in the trash and next time buy the smallest size you can so you wind up tossing less glue WHEN it sets up in the bottle
Also, many folks recommend storing it upside down, so the surface exposed to the air in the bottle is at the bottom of the bottle, as the hardening works it way from that surface to the rest of the bottle. Might have given you one more use of the glue out of that bottle
Although it foams and does have some filling ability, it loses virtually all of it's glue strength if the surfaces are not tight together.
Also, woodworking magazines have run tests on glues and Gorilla Glue (and it competitors) most definitely are NOT "The Toughest Glue on Earth" and they should be taken to task over the false advertising inherent in that slogan
Instead of Gorilla Glue, I keep 2part epoxy in the shop for when I need gap filling AND strength, along with the filler so the epoxy can be almost water thin OR it can be mixed with the filler to achieve something like peanut butter consistancy. Absolutely waterproof and very strong
Otherwise, I use TightBond III (yellow glue) that is pretty water resistant and very strong for the majority of my woodworking projects
John
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#4
of 28
Posted
Nov-1 9:24 PM
From
John Barreiro
Posts
212
Last
4:02 PM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.4
1790.1
]
Gorilla Glue sets with moisture. They recommend that when you use it, squeeze out most of the air before putting the cap back on. -I do.
I pretty much wind up using it before it hardens completely but I found a small bottle that I had put away after one use about a year before (I tend to have a couple of bottles going at once) and it was still nice and liquidiy.
The one thing I dislike about Gorilla Glue is that it sets black on skin and you pretty much have to scrape it off. I wear gloves when I have to use a lot of it and keep a wet rag handy.
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#5
of 28
Posted
Nov-1 9:27 PM
From
John Barreiro
Posts
212
Last
4:02 PM
To
John Crea - WUGNET
[Msg # 1790.5
1790.3
]
>>Also, many folks recommend storing it upside down, so the surface exposed to the air in the bottle is at the bottom of the bottle, as the hardening works it way from that surface to the rest of the bottle. <<
Good idea. I'll do that with the next batch.
I use Titebond III a lot more often than GG. Gorilla Glue does stick to some things that Titebond won't.
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#6
of 28
Posted
Nov-1 11:02 PM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
John Crea - WUGNET
[Msg # 1790.6
1790.3
]
A lifespan of only 3-6 months? Holy cow, mine is well over a year old. No wonder it's no good anymore.
It is the smallest size - 2 oz. I wish they would make it in small, one-time use vials that you could just twist open, apply, and then throw away.
Next time I'll store it upside down and also put it in a baggie as Jeff suggested.
That's interesting about the tests and Gorilla Glue not being "The Toughest Glue on Earth." That slogan is why I bought it in the first place. Actually, though, it has worked well for my purposes. Better than "super glue."
I'm going to buy some more glue tomorrow. I'll look for TightBond III. Thanks!
Jan
The Travel Forum
Gadgets & Gear Community
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#7
of 28
Posted
Nov-1 11:07 PM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
John Barreiro
[Msg # 1790.7
1790.4
]
» RE:
» The one thing I dislike about Gorilla Glue is that it sets black on skin and you pretty much have to scrape it off. «
Sets
black
on skin?? Never had that happen to me. I've needed only small amounts at a time and use a toothpick to apply it. It does help to have a wet cloth handy, as you said.
Jan
The Travel Forum
Gadgets & Gear Community
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#8
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 5:36 AM
From
Mike Hughes
Posts
25
Last
5:47 AM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.8
1790.1
]
Jan
I have had mixed results with "Gorilla Glue". It is not nearly as good as epoxy although it is easier to use. As you discovered, it has a short shelf life once the bottle is opened. When you are working with porous material such as wood and have a reasonably good fit for the surfaces, yellow wood glue such as "Tite-Bond" is much less toxic, cleans up with water and has a long shelf life although you may have to clear the opening of the bottle of hardened glue.
Keep in mind that epoxy resin, polyurethane products such as "Gorilla Glue" and cyanoacrilate products such as "Super Glue" are all highly toxic. You need to be very careful to keep them off your skin. They are all "sensitizers" which means that you can be careless with them for a long time without any problems and then have a life-threatening reaction without warning.
Mike
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#9
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 9:27 AM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
Mike Hughes
[Msg # 1790.9
1790.8
]
What's the difference between glue and epoxy? I'm trying to reattach a small metal cap on the arm of my soloflex machine. I successfully reattached it with Gorilla Glue about a month ago, but yesterday I set down the arm rather hard and the cap popped off again.
Jan
The Travel Forum
Gadgets & Gear Community
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#10
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 3:13 PM
From
John Barreiro
Posts
212
Last
4:02 PM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.10
1790.7
]
Yep... don't get it on your hands or you'll have black splotches that are hard to get off...
When you're doing glue-ups as large as I do, it's not hard to get some on you <g>. I do quite a bit of woodworking.
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#11
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 3:16 PM
From
John Barreiro
Posts
212
Last
4:02 PM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.11
1790.9
]
For what you're doing,
silastic, aka silicone seal,
is good. You need to get the kind that sticks to metal, not the "gasket making" kind.
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#12
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 3:42 PM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
John Barreiro
[Msg # 1790.12
1790.11
]
Oh, really? I didn't know you could use a
silicone sealant for glueing purposes. I'll look for it at the store.
Jan
The Travel Forum
Gadgets & Gear Community
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#13
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 4:45 PM
From
Marte Brengle
Posts
39
Last
Nov-20
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.13
1790.6
]
Yeah, Gorilla Glue is pretty much a bust, at least in this household. Our bottle hardened into a brick after two or three uses.
You might try Loctite Stik & Seal Ultra. I just used that to put plastic "lath" into a hole in our kitchen wall so I could re-tile it. It glued strips of plastic firmly to old plaster. Seems to stick to just about anything. Just don't get it on your fingers (I learned that the hard way).
infmom.net
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#14
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 5:09 PM
From
Mike Hughes
Posts
25
Last
5:47 AM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.14
1790.9
]
Jan
Epoxy glue always comes in two parts. You normally squeeze equal sized blobs from two tubes and stir them together with something like a matchstick. It is more trouble but it does not set up in the tubes, only after it is mixed. It sticks to most metals but they have to be clean with no grease or oil or dirt on them. It sticks to some plastics but not all of them. Hardened epoxy is very strong and tough so it is especially good where your parts fit loosely. It will fill the gaps between the pieces and doesn't crack under pressure. Epoxy is toxic; wear rubber gloves and don't get it on you. You can get it at Ace or Home Depot but probably not at the grocery store.
Silicone sealant does not stick all that well but it can work where you have a sloppy fit and are not going to put a lot of pressure on the parts.
Mike
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#15
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 5:27 PM
From
John Barreiro
Posts
212
Last
4:02 PM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.15
1790.12
]
You really, really want to stick metal to metal? I got your stuff:
SikaFlex.
It's used to bond automotive panels and it's also used in boats to attach and seal metal fittings to fiberglass. Once you use it, don't change your mind <G>
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#16
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 7:07 PM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
Marte Brengle
[Msg # 1790.16
1790.13
]
» RE:
» You might try Loctite Stik & Seal Ultra. «
I was in a store today where they had an assortment of glues and epoxies but I don't recall seeing that name. Must not be as common as Gorilla, Elmer, etc. I'll look for it in other stores.
Is it reusable after opening and recapping multiple times?
Jan
The Travel Forum
Gadgets & Gear Community
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#17
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 7:15 PM
From
Marte Brengle
Posts
39
Last
Nov-20
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.17
1790.16
]
I bought this stuff at Home Depot and it was on the same wall as the other more common glues. I don't know about longevity, since I've only had it a week or two, but so far it hasn't hardened up in the tube. It's a pretty small tube and not terribly expensive, so if it dries out I won't have a problem throwing it away.
infmom.net
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#18
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 7:17 PM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
Mike Hughes
[Msg # 1790.18
1790.14
]
» RE:
» but it does not set up in the tubes, only after it is mixed. «
That sounds like a real plus. In a store today, I saw "new"
Gorilla Epoxy
. (Watch out on that Web site. The gorilla's fingers start to move; I thought I was seeing things. <g>)
At the time, I didn't know if epoxy would work for my situation, so I ended up buying Gorilla Super Glue. It came in a package of two small tubes for half the price of the smallest size Gorilla Glue so I figured it would be less of a waste if the tube hardened in time. I put the Super Glue on my Soloflex part a short while ago. If it doesn't hold, I'll try the epoxy.
The part is on the arm of the Soloflex that presses and moves against the main frame so it does receive pressure -- probably why it had broken off after some 20 years of use. <g>
Jan
The Travel Forum
Gadgets & Gear Community
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#19
of 28
Posted
Nov-2 7:24 PM
From
JanSternfeld
Posts
2015
Last
2:23 PM
To
John Barreiro
[Msg # 1790.19
1790.15
]
» RE:
» You really, really want to stick metal to metal? I got your stuff: SikaFlex. «
Okay. Sounds like a product of last resort. I'll put it at the bottom of my glue list. <g>
Jan
The Travel Forum
Gadgets & Gear Community
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#20
of 28
Posted
Nov-3 5:29 AM
From
Mike Hughes
Posts
25
Last
5:47 AM
To
JanSternfeld
[Msg # 1790.20
1790.18
]
Jan
"Super glue" (cyanoacrilate) has poor gap-filling properties; your parts need to have a tight fit to get a good bond. It bonds in a few seconds which is both good and bad. You only have about a second to adjust your pieces before they lock together but you normally do not have to clamp. Just hold the pieces in place for 10 or 15 seconds and they will stay put so long as there is not a lot of pressure applied to them. This is the most dangerous of the common glues. It is extremely toxic and it has the peculiar property of bonding skin. Get it on your fingers and press them together for a few seconds and you may need surgery to get them apart! There have been some peculiar accidents and some very nasty pranks involving the stuff. It sets up quickly in the tube after being opened so buying single-use packages is a good idea. Wear rubber gloves when working with it.
> Sika-flex...
3M 5200 marine sealant has similar properties and is easier to find. You can get it at Home Depot or any boat store. It isn't intended for use as a glue but it works well for some purposes. The fact that it is flexible rather than rigid and brittle is sometimes useful where having a little give in the parts is desirable. These polyurethane products set up too rapidly in the tube to be useful for casual repairs. You have to use the whole tube quickly once it is open. They are moderately toxic.
You get to know all of these products if you maintain a boat.
Mike
Edited Nov-3 by Mike Hughes
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