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Message Area
General/Forum Help

Stuck Drill Bit

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#1 of 11

     Posted Oct-6 4:04 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-20
To  All      [Msg # 16529.1 ]    

I'm trying to drill a hole for a coax cable up from a basement into a first-floor wall. The place I need to drill is about 8" behind an "engineered I-beam" into which I drilled a 4" access hole. I used a 12" 1/8"-long twist-drill bit on the end of a drill-bit extender to try to create a pilot hole to confirm the position of the hole. Wouldn't you know, once the bit was 4" in (at least the first part MDF subfloor), it stuck! I tried attaching the drill to the and of the bit and running it in reverse, but it couldn't get a good enough grip on the bit. Same with a vice-grip.

Once you've stopped chuckling at my misfortune, can anyone suggest an approach to solve this problem? I'm thinking about drilling with a spade bit of the diameter I'll need for that coax slightly offset from the twist bit, but that could be a little tricky.

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#2 of 11

     Posted Oct-6 9:58 PM   
Howard Norman
 
From  Howard Norman  Posts 61  Last Nov-19
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16529.2 Message 16529.2 replying to 16529.1 16529.1 ]    
You have tried the two ways that I normally get a stuck bit out. I would try the ViseGrip again. That should work.
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#3 of 11

     Posted Oct-6 10:22 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-20
To  Howard Norman      [Msg # 16529.3 Message 16529.3 replying to 16529.2 16529.2 ]    
Thanks for the encouragement.
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#4 of 11

     Posted Oct-6 11:00 PM   
John Barreiro
 
From  John Barreiro  Posts 34  Last Nov-19
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16529.4 Message 16529.4 replying to 16529.3 16529.3 ]    
You might have hit a piece of re-bar or a foundation bolt just tangentially and the drill is stuck between steel and whatever material it is.

If you can clamp the vise grips at a right angle to the drill bit and while turning it counter-clockwise try lightly tapping on the end with a small hammer, a series of closely spaced, short taps.

I know that it sounds counter intuitive to tap onto a drill that has become a nail but the vibrations set up by the light tapping might help dislodge it from what ever it got caught on.

Another thing that probably happened is that the crud got wedged in the flutes and has become solid.


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#5 of 11

     Posted Oct-7 1:47 PM   
groucho
 
From  groucho  Posts 488  Last Nov-17
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16529.5 Message 16529.5 replying to 16529.1 16529.1 ]    

How's the weather?

I ask because, in theory that engineered I-beam won't expand or swell much, but if the weather or the wall cavity is cool or damp, heating it up in there with a hair dryer, etc. might change things enough to let you get the bit unstuck.

Alternately, if you get some freeze spray (sold to freeze warts, or to shoot down bees) and ice down the bit, it might contract enough to pull it out with the vice grip.

 

Or...how big is the drill bit shank? 3/8"? Then get a hardwood broom handle or something, drill a hole of the same diameter in it. Fill the hole with a premimum epoxy. Swab off the end of the drill bit shank with some alcohol to degrease it, jam it into the new handle, let set and dry overnight. Betcha you can just pull the sucker out after that, and chew away the wood and epoxy with conventional means.

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#6 of 11

     Posted Oct-7 11:09 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-20
To  John Barreiro      [Msg # 16529.6 Message 16529.6 replying to 16529.4 16529.4 ]    
** If you can clamp the vise grips at a right angle to the drill bit and while turning it counter-clockwise try lightly tapping on the end with a small hammer, a series of closely spaced, short taps. **

I'll give that a try.

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#7 of 11

     Posted Oct-7 11:13 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-20
To  groucho      [Msg # 16529.7 Message 16529.7 replying to 16529.5 16529.5 ]    
** in theory that engineered I-beam won't expand or swell much **

I'm working through a hole in that I-beam into the subfloor.

** how big is the drill bit shank? 3/8"?

It's 1/8".

** Then get a hardwood broom handle or something, drill a hole of the same diameter in it. Fill the hole with a premimum epoxy. Swab off the end of the drill bit shank with some alcohol to degrease it, jam it into the new handle, let set and dry overnight. Betcha you can just pull the sucker out after that, and chew away the wood and epoxy with conventional means. **

An interesting option.

I tried the drill and the vice-grips again today with no evident success.  I'm tempted to mark the drill bit in a way that will let me tell if I've been successul in rotating it.

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#8 of 11

     Posted Oct-18 5:58 PM   
Jim Grey
 
From  Jim Grey  Posts 46  Last Nov-13
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16529.8 Message 16529.8 replying to 16529.1 16529.1 ]    

Once upon a time I wanted to remove some broken off screws from an old piece of furniture I was repairing. I had some tubing out of an old lamp in the shop and I cut a piece off about 2 inches long and filed two teeth in the one end of it. The tube was only three eights of an inch in diameter and I was able to glue a piece of dowel back in for the next screw to be twisted into.

It does not sound like you will need to fill the hole and you will not need to cut the piece of tube off. I bet you can file the teeth in and drill a nice 3/8 th hole around your drill and then take it out of the wood extracted by the tube. 

Just call it your "hollow bit".

Persist... Procreate... Prosper... Proliferate  JWG



Edited Oct-18   by  Jim Grey
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#9 of 11

     Posted Oct-18 11:04 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-20
To  Jim Grey      [Msg # 16529.9 Message 16529.9 replying to 16529.8 16529.8 ]    

** you will need to fill the hole **

That's true, more or less.

** and you will not need to cut the piece of tube off **

It's not a "piece of tube", it's a 12" long 1/8" twist drill bit that cost me $ 6.41. I'd like to recover it if I could.

More of the saga: I bought a 16" long, 1/2" spade bit. That did a good job of drilling up from the basement, at least after I remembered that I'd left the drill set to reverse! :-(

However, I'm still having trouble. I have to drill at a slant anyway, so it's a bit of a guess as to just what angle to use to have the other end of the hole end up inside the upper floor wall. I've tried twice so far. The material that was coming out of one hole gave me the impression that I was drilling into the exterior wall.

So, the job still isn't finished.

Once I finish the hole (or if I need a break from the job), I'll work on freeing that other drill bit.


Edited Oct-18   by  Bill Boyd
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#10 of 11

     Posted Oct-19 6:14 AM   
Jim Grey
 
From  Jim Grey  Posts 46  Last Nov-13
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16529.10 Message 16529.10 replying to 16529.9 16529.9 ]    

It's not a "piece of tube", it's a 12" long 1/8" twist drill bit that cost me $ 6.41. I'd like to recover it if I could.

The piece of tube I was referring to was the one turned into a hollow drill bit. You could use the entire tube. If you do not have an old lamp to raid then you can find them at the hardware.

Persist... Procreate... Prosper... Proliferate  JWG


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#11 of 11

     Posted Oct-19 11:31 AM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-20
To  Jim Grey      [Msg # 16529.11 Message 16529.11 replying to 16529.10 16529.10 ]    

** The piece of tube I was referring to was the one turned into a hollow drill bit. **

Now I understand. Thanks for the suggestion.

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General/Forum Help

Stuck Drill Bit

  
 
     

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