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Message Area
Britain/Ireland/UK

Ireland in September

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#1 of 83

     Posted 1/28/09 9:19 PM   
Dav Vandenbroucke
 
From  Dav Vandenbroucke  Posts 298  Last Nov-21
To  All      [Msg # 31131.1 ]    
We're starting to plan for a trip to Ireland in September.  The idea is to rent a car and see the place on our own.  We will probably have two full weeks, and we've never been there before.

We have Rick Steves' book, and so I think we know the basics.  I'm interested in what anyone has to suggest about must-sees, must-avoids, places to stay, best ways to get there, and tips in general.

We'll be leaving from Washington National (yes, National, not Dulles or BWI.  You can't get to those by Metro).  So that probably means a connecting flight before crossing the ocean.  When we went to London, going via Charlotte worked pretty well.

What are we interested in?  Well...history (particularly military), gardens, beer, scenery, architecture, music (folk, early, baroque), a bit of art. Walking is good, but not camping.  No interest in sports or golf. Shopping is a by-the-way thing, not an end in itself.  No nightclubs. We like good food, of course, but we're not foodies.  Pubs and nice Italian restaurants are more our style.  We're not very outgoing but feel we should meet more local people than we have on earlier trips.

We won't be pinching pennies or relentlessly looking for the cheapest way to do things.  But saving money is always a good idea.




Dav Vandenbroucke
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#2 of 83

     Posted 1/29/09 12:56 AM   
Gail K.
 
From  Gail K.  Posts 411  Last Jun-18
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.2 Message 31131.2 replying to 31131.1 31131.1 ]    
Dav,

This isn't exactly military, but maybe you'll be interested.  Tucked in a corner at the back of Dublin Castle is a police museum.  The uniforms were especially interesting to me.  My husband was more interested in the history.

And, of course, don't forget the Book of Kells in Dublin.  The book itself takes about five seconds to look at, but the exhibit leading up to it is fascinating.  It goes through the entire history of learning in Ireland from ancient times to the present.  Then after you pass by the Book of Kells, you're led into the long library of Trinity College.  This is a room not to be missed.  It's a huge beautifully paneled room with floor to ceiling books, mostly very old.  Many are opened to view. 

With a car, I'm sure you'll be seeing a lot outside of Dublin, but don't skip the city.  I don't have a drop of Irish blood in me, but I don't think I've visited any other city where I've felt more at home.

Gail K.
Edited 1/29/09   by  Gail K.
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#3 of 83

     Posted 1/29/09 8:24 AM   
Bill Burch/CHA
 
From  Bill Burch/CHA  Posts 945  Last Nov-21
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.3 Message 31131.3 replying to 31131.1 31131.1 ]    

Dav,

We were there in 2004 and had a great time. As you know we use the Rick Steves guide book also. Planning included some main tourist sites and some outdoor activities. The Cliffs of Moher, Aran Islands, The Burren, The Rock of Cashel, Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula are famous tourist site. We learned about a naturalist that leads day hikes in the Burren and added that to the itinerary. The Connemara was added. We found out about Powerscourt and Glendalough located in the Wicklow Mountains. Dublin was totally removed when we heard out about sea kayaking in West Cork County. Kinsale is between the Rock of Cashel and the Sea Kayaking, plus its restaurants were known for gourmet food. The Aran Islands, Connemara and the Burren can all be accessed from Galway. The Medieval town of Kilkenny was the last addition. We took 2 weeks to tour this southern route. When we go back, we would go to Dublin and the northern sections.

We have two enlarged photos on our wall from that trip. Practical suggestions: We rented as small a car as we could with automatic transmission. Roads are very narrow. Be sure to check for scratches and damaged hubcaps on the passenger side when you pick up your car. Visa would not cover collision damage wavier, but Master card would. I took out a master card for this trip for the car rental. My wife complained about how close I was to the hedge rows and stoen fences, then it was her turn to drive!! Allow lots more time to drive some place, it is a slow go. We were almost late to the Aron Islands ferry and to the plane on the last day. You would have thought we would have learned by then.

We like all the B&Bs used on this trip. They were fairly described. Highlights was the entire trip. We made several drives through the country, just got lost and got some great pictures. The weather changed back and forth and so did our plans for the day. We had a clear day for the Cliffs of Moher. Back in the area a week later staying at a farm house and that night the rain storm was beyond fierce. We did not even go back for more pictures at the Cliff as planned.

In Dingle Town at the Captain’s House B&B we met several people that had been on a Rick Steves tour. Because of that we have been on 2 of those trips.

Just rereading my notes, it was a fun trip.
Bill

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#4 of 83

     Posted 1/29/09 7:01 PM   
Dav Vandenbroucke
 
From  Dav Vandenbroucke  Posts 298  Last Nov-21
To  Bill Burch/CHA      [Msg # 31131.4 Message 31131.4 replying to 31131.3 31131.3 ]    
Thanks for the replies.  We'll skip the kayaking, but the others sound interesting.  Yes, I'm going to want automatic transmission, and I'm hoping for GPS.  What do I need to be allowed to drive in Ireland?




Dav Vandenbroucke
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#5 of 83

     Posted 1/29/09 7:50 PM   
Hugh Wyn Griffith FL
 
From  Hugh Wyn Griffith FL  Posts 6406  Last Jul-7
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.5 Message 31131.5 replying to 31131.4 31131.4 ]    

One thing is that not all credit card foreign car insurance covers Ireland (and a small bunch of other countries) so if you plan not to take local insurance:

Check whether you can not take it as part of the car rental (at one time it could not be not taken, at least by with some rental companies).

Check whether your payment card extension will cover you.

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#6 of 83

     Posted 1/30/09 11:34 AM   
Bill Burch/CHA
 
From  Bill Burch/CHA  Posts 945  Last Nov-21
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.6 Message 31131.6 replying to 31131.4 31131.4 ]    

Dav,

I just used our Tennessee Drivers License. I used the international license for years, but no one ever looked at it. So I skipped the time and expense to get it. We made several drives by getting off the main road and just driving in a "westerly" direction until we found a recognizable road again. That put us in the farm country, up beside the rough mountains in Connemara, and closer to the sheep. Out of the way places. GPS was not readily available then. We were exploring the last day. We decided at Tralle to cross the Shannon on the ferry, not continue through Limerick. What a big expanse of water. This gave us new country to explore and it ended up taking longer than estimated. There are always lot of different ways to go. It would be interesting to test the GPS to see if it could get you out of some of the places we got "lost" visiting. We saw bird watchers, old stone bridges, fishermen and even a an international political meeting at an out of way resort. We always found some interesting place to eat, small local pubs.

Here are some paperback books I enjoyed:
“On Celtic Tides” Chris Duff ISBN 0-312-26368-6
“McCarthy’s Bar” Pete McCarthy ISBN 0-340-76605-0
“Round Ireland with a Fridge” Tony Hawks ISBN 0-312-27492-0

Bill

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#7 of 83

     Posted 1/30/09 4:52 PM   
Dav Vandenbroucke
 
From  Dav Vandenbroucke  Posts 298  Last Nov-21
To  Bill Burch/CHA      [Msg # 31131.7 Message 31131.7 replying to 31131.6 31131.6 ]    
Where do you live in Tennesse?  Is that "CHA" for Chattanooga?  I lived in Sewanee for three years, in the late 1980s.




Dav Vandenbroucke
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#8 of 83

     Posted 1/30/09 5:32 PM   
Bill Burch/CHA
 
From  Bill Burch/CHA  Posts 945  Last Nov-21
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.8 Message 31131.8 replying to 31131.7 31131.7 ]    
Dav,
I know Sawanee. Were you at the University of the South? - I worked at Arnold Center just over the hill from 63-71. We also attended Washington University (St. Louis) which was on their schedule back then. Then I moved to Cleveland TN in 1971. We have lived here since then. We are near Chattanooga, but fly out of Atlanta or Nashville. The flights to Chattanooga became iffy, if they want to fly they will take you. The shuttle is now faster and lower cost. We really enjoyed Ireland, traveling on our own and defiantly consider going back.
Bill
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#9 of 83

     Posted 1/30/09 9:28 PM   
Dav Vandenbroucke
 
From  Dav Vandenbroucke  Posts 298  Last Nov-21
To  Bill Burch/CHA      [Msg # 31131.9 Message 31131.9 replying to 31131.8 31131.8 ]    
Yes, I taught economics there from 1987 to 1990. That was a few years before I became a government bureaucrat.




Dav Vandenbroucke
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#10 of 83

     Posted 1/31/09 4:46 AM   
Fred O BDL
 
From  Fred O BDL  Posts 819  Last Jul-8
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.10 Message 31131.10 replying to 31131.4 31131.4 ]    
Dav-
 Bill has mentioned many of the places that we particularlyy appreciated in a couple of trips to Ireland.  Most recently, a couple of years ago.
I've not got  the time for a good answer right now, but I'll say that Donegal is still a good deal more remote, and like the "old" Ireland of 20 years ago.  Prosperity has made good food much more a part of the environment than on our first trip in 1992.

See if you can get to Skellig Michael ( Great Skellig island) off the coast of Kerry.
I have some pictures I'll post in the next day or so.

Fred



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#11 of 83

     Posted 1/31/09 8:22 AM   
Bill Burch/CHA
 
From  Bill Burch/CHA  Posts 945  Last Nov-21
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.11 Message 31131.11 replying to 31131.9 31131.9 ]    

Professor Dav,

The book on Kayaking around Ireland goes into the history of some of the Islands he sees. He talks to people that live on the islands about how they exist. He describes difficulties of fishing. In between how you live out of a little boat.

I enjoy the mountains here in east Tennessee, so I also enjoyed the mountains in Ireland. The pictures I have on my wall at home show an old broken down castle in a lush green sea side view. Another shows a farm with no electricity at the base of rugged mountains. The farm in the valley is lush and green, the mountains bare. The Electrical poles had stopped several farm houses back. Also the road quit here, so we had to turn around and try a different route back to the main roads.

Bill

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#12 of 83

     Posted 2/2/09 12:15 PM   
Fred O BDL
 
From  Fred O BDL  Posts 819  Last Jul-8
To  Bill Burch/CHA      [Msg # 31131.12 Message 31131.12 replying to 31131.11 31131.11 ]    
Bill and Dav - the photos attached are not the kind that we hang on the wall.  They were also made some time ago, with adequate equipment but without a lens hood.  I have finally learned about that one. Technical quality does not interfere with your ability to sense the place.

Abbey Hill, in the Burren, is a fascinating walk.  Karst. You can  see the terrain and the flora in the crevices.  The Burrren Center is a good visitors center. Just south of Galway Bay.  I ecallthat itis in ornear Kilfenora.  If you drive around there, you see a plethora of Neoilithic structures
The Rusheen Lodge is a wonderful B&B. 

Rushhen Lodge
Lisdoonvarna Rd
Ballyvaughn, Cty Clare
+353-(0)65-707-7092

There are others with similar names.  This one is worth the detour.

Gregan's Castle, just south of there, is a very high class establishment. We ate ther, did not sleep there.
  Good wine list, superb kitchen, not cheap.

The Skelligs.
  An Irish cousin tok us off the shore of Kerry  to the largest of the Skellig Islands.  Great Skellig or "Skellig Michael" in our trip in the '90's.  We had a picnic above the bee-hive huts, built and inhabited by monks for many centuries. 
There always has been a rumor that they plan to close off access to tourists.   Rumor and access have persisted for many years.  Perhaps such a rumor encourages tourists to pay for the boat ride out and back? <G>  Once you arrive by boat, you have to climb a few hundred steps to get to the top.
 Fred

Attachments
Name:   Julia_at_the_base_of_The_Burren_on_Abbey_Hill_.jpgSize:   159 K
Name:   The_way_up_on_the_Burren.jpgSize:   206 K
Name:   Stone_fence_on_top_of_The_Burren.jpgSize:   217 K
Name:   Near_the_top_of_Abbey_Hill_-_The_Burren.jpgSize:   154 K
Name:   Looking_down_from_Abbey_Hill_xThe_Burrenx.jpgSize:   192 K
Name:   Flowers_in_the_Crevices_of_the_Burren.jpgSize:   232 K
Name:   View_from_the_boat_leaving_the_mainland_toward_the_Skelligs.jpgSize:   172 K
Name:   Julia_on_Skellig_Michaelx_with_tourists.jpgSize:   170 K
Name:   Picnic_on_Skellig_Michael.jpgSize:   211 K
Name:   Lesser_Skellig_and_the_mainland_from_Skellig_Michael.jpgSize:   138 K

Edited 2/2/09   by  Fred O BDL
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#13 of 83

     Posted 2/2/09 4:48 PM   
Dav Vandenbroucke
 
From  Dav Vandenbroucke  Posts 298  Last Nov-21
To  Fred O BDL      [Msg # 31131.13 Message 31131.13 replying to 31131.12 31131.12 ]    
Thanks for the pictures.  That's something to look forward to.




Dav Vandenbroucke
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#14 of 83

     Posted 2/2/09 5:38 PM   
Fred O BDL
 
From  Fred O BDL  Posts 819  Last Jul-8
To  Dav Vandenbroucke      [Msg # 31131.14 Message 31131.14 replying to 31131.13 31131.13 ]    
Dav -
I'll see if i can come up with some more.  From Donegal.
If you want to get to a part of Ireland that has not become quite so modernized and prosperous, try western Donegal.

Fred
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#15 of 83

     Posted 2/4/09 8:51 PM   
Bill Burch/CHA
 
From  Bill Burch/CHA  Posts 945  Last Nov-21
To  Fred O BDL      [Msg # 31131.15 Message 31131.15 replying to 31131.12 31131.12 ]    
Fred,
That shows the flowers growing on the rocks. It was unbelievable, Fascinating place to see. The Aran Islands have this fort at the top of the cliffs.
Bill
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#16 of 83

     Posted 2/4/09 10:11 PM   
Hugh Wyn Griffith FL
 
From  Hugh Wyn Griffith FL  Posts 6406  Last Jul-7
To  Bill Burch/CHA      [Msg # 31131.16 Message 31131.16 replying to 31131.15 31131.15 ]    
There's a wonderful film made by Robert Flaherty back in 1934, Man of Aran, that would fascinate you especially if you've been to Aran. It seems it is on DVD now.
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#17 of 83

     Posted 2/5/09 7:54 AM   
Bill Burch/CHA
 
From  Bill Burch/CHA  Posts 945  Last Nov-21
To  Hugh Wyn Griffith FL      [Msg # 31131.17 Message 31131.17 replying to 31131.16 31131.16 ]    
Hugh,
I will have to look for it. Aran Island was an interesting day trip. The stone walls separating fields made great pictures. The people going out for the weekend were having a party everywhere. The young people got bikes to ride all over the island. We road on a horse cart up to the fort. I just made a nice day. There were lots of small flowers to photograph. I used the photo of us at the fort for the index picture of Ireland on my web site bburch.org. I also dropped my telephoto lens and cracked the outer ring. I could still make it work, but when I returned home I replaced it with an Imaged Stabilized lens, which was an improvement. We watched the weather and picked the best day for the trip. The following day the big storm moved in and the ocean would have been too rough to go out.
Bill
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#18 of 83

     Posted 2/5/09 11:57 AM   
Hugh Wyn Griffith FL
 
From  Hugh Wyn Griffith FL  Posts 6406  Last Jul-7
To  Bill Burch/CHA      [Msg # 31131.18 Message 31131.18 replying to 31131.17 31131.17 ]    

I expect you would see little change from 1934 to now -- except maybe satellite dishes?

Ouch about the lens but clearly it was time to get a better one -- IS is remarkable.

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#19 of 83

     Posted 2/5/09 6:04 PM   
Bill Burch/CHA
 
From  Bill Burch/CHA  Posts 945  Last Nov-21
To  Hugh Wyn Griffith FL      [Msg # 31131.19 Message 31131.19 replying to 31131.18 31131.18 ]    
Hugh,
The IS lens should gain you a couple of f stops. It is important to me as I do not carry a tripod around Europe or Ireland. If we were to go back to Ireland we would have to visit the northern part where the Frame family called home before coming to America. Then we could go to Scotland to the set area where the Campbell family emigrated. I also want to see the Devil's steps. My brother-in-law does the research for this. Maybe I could talk him into going with us.
Bill
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#20 of 83

     Posted 2/5/09 6:15 PM   
Hugh Wyn Griffith FL
 
From  Hugh Wyn Griffith FL  Posts 6406  Last Jul-7
To  Bill Burch/CHA      [Msg # 31131.20 Message 31131.20 replying to 31131.19 31131.19 ]    

Yes, it's something when you can do handheld shots with an equivalent to 540mm lens even in Florida sunshine!

I used to go to Northern Ireland on business frequently at one time, when they still had a linen and a textile industry and did get to see the Devil's Steps on one occasion, but only from the top of the cliff.

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Britain/Ireland/UK

Ireland in September

  
 
     

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